New set of T piece sizes available

T Piece silicone hosesWe already had the biggest range of T piece hoses in the world but that won’t stop us making it bigger!

Yes, we have just added a new set of T piece sizes to the range. We have introduced 14 new sizes ranging from 8mm to 51mm.

Available in Red, Blue and Black.

Our T piece silicone hoses are ideal for:

– Connecting dump valves
– Using as a breather take off
– Using as a water take off connection

We have hose tees available, which are suitable for water, radiator, and dump valves with main body and take off options to suit many applications.

If you would like to take a look at the range please click here.

Driving in the EU after Brexit – whats the score

I know no one wants to hear the word Brexit ever again! But if you love driving then you really do need to pay attention to just one little part… driving in the EU.

If there is a no-deal Brexit, you will not be allowed to drive in the EU unless you have all the correct documentation.

  1. Driving Licence and IDPs

The first element is pretty obvious you will need your UK driving licence to drive in an EU or EEA country. This one doesn’t really change, you need to make sure you have a full, valid driving licence before stepping behind the wheel abroad.

The additional element is that you may need one or more international driving permits (IDPs), depending on which country you’re going to or through. To find out what you need you can check the governments own guidance here.

  1. Insurance

You will need to carry a motor insurance green card when driving in the EU and EEA. To get this please contact your vehicle insurance provider 1 month before you travel to get green cards for your vehicle, caravan or trailer.

  1. Registration documents

If you’re taking your vehicle to the EU for less than 12 months, you should carry one of the following documents with you:

  1. GB stickers and number plates

You should display a GB sticker on the rear of your vehicle. You should do so even if you currently have a number plate, which includes the GB identifier. If you do not have this in place you could receive an unwanted on the spot fine whilst driving in the EU.

So there it is. We won’t say the dreaded word again but in the event of a no deal B****t you will know what to do.

Technologies that everyday cars inherited from race cars

Modern cars benefit from technology, which has been honed over decades of competition. Some innovations started with race teams looking for an advantage, others originated outside of racing but proved their effectiveness on track. All these tests and tweaks make cars better.

Here are some race technologies that migrated into our cars:

All-wheel drive

Although a few road vehicles and race cars existed with four wheel drive before it, the Audi Coupe Quattro was the first with an all-wheel drive system. The Quattro was built to dominate the World Rally Championship. Engineers bet the extra traction of all-wheel drive would be advantageous on the many unpaved, and sometimes snow-covered rally stages. The Quattro proved them right, winning the championship in 1983 and 1984.

Meanwhile, the WRC embraced all-wheel drive and never looked back, paving the way for cars like the Subaru Impreza WRX and Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. The biggest advantage of all-wheel drive systems is their superior traction but sports cars take advantage of the additional traction even on dry surfaces to achieve faster acceleration times.


Turbocharging didn’t start in race cars, but Turbocharged cars didn’t make much of an impact until they went racing. This began in earnest in the 1970s, when Porsche launched its 917/10 and 917/30 Can-Am cars, and Renault brought turbo power to Formula One. It was that era of racing that paved the way for turbochargers to really go mainstream in road cars. Turbos are still used for performance, but automakers increasingly use them to downsize engines in the name of fuel economy. Turbochargers allow smaller engines to produce more power.

Semi-automatic gearboxes

Gearboxes used to be a simple choice between manual or automatic, that was before racing teams found a performance advantage in transmissions drivers which can shift themselves without a clutch pedal. Eliminating the clutch allows transmissions to shift faster, so it was only a matter of time before the technology became commonplace in both race cars and road-going sports cars.

Anti-lock brakes

Anti-lock braking systems (ABS) were used more commonly in aircraft before cars. In 1961, a variation of the system was fitted to the Ferguson P99 Formula One car but this wasn’t very successful in F1. It only won a single race, and driver Stirling Moss didn’t even use the ABS, preferring to modulate the brakes the old-fashioned way.

The Ferguson P99 was ahead of its time. Its ABS was mechanical; it would take electronics to make ABS truly practical. Today, it’s illegal to sell a new car without ABS in the U.S. However, ABS is not allowed in Formula One. It’s one of many driver aids banned in the series.

Our Custom Fabrication made simple

custom silicone hose with toolingWe get lots of messages from our users asking about custom hoses. As much as we appreciate all of the love, we thought we would take a moment to clear the process up.

Many messages we receive include questions like ‘If I send you OEM hose can you make one the same’ or ‘I need a set of hoses for XYZ model of car’. As much as we would love to help all of the people who get in touch it simply isn’t viable to make most of the requests we get.

The main thing to remember with our custom manufacturing is that there is a minimum order of 20 + tooling. This means that if you were looking for your own vehicle you would need to pay for the creation of the tooling plus 20 sets of the same hose when you only need 1. As you can imagine this would make the project financially viable. We are not in the business of ripping people off.

For more information about custom hose manufacturing please click here


We have expanded our range of Y piece Silicone Hoses

Our unique Y piece silicone hoses are a very useful connector if you’ve got two pipes going into one – otherwise impossible to obtain. With our recent expansion of our Y piece silicone hose connectors, we have sizes varying between 32mm and 76mm. the main body is larger than the diameter, splitting and reducing down to two equal branches.

These connectors are carefully moulded by hand and there is no ‘flashing’ of any silicone inside the join which provides excellent water and airflow.

The Y piece silicone hose connector is suitable for applications including trucks, vehicles, boats and anything else with an engine.

See our expanded range of Y piece Silicone Hoses here

Preparing your Car for Winter

Car in winter snowWhile the dark nights are getting closer, it’s said that Britain could experience one of the coldest Winters in 30 years.

Last year, the ‘Beast from the East’ saw temperatures plunge down to a shivering -14°C, with winds reaching 70mph. Scientists have predicted that the central England temperature for this Winter will be even lower than last year*. With these brutal times approaching, just sparing a few minutes maintenance on your car could see it through the worst of the weather.

Here’s our guide to preparing your Car for Winter.

  1. Get your Car Serviced before Winter

It’s known by every car driver that the cold causes problems for cars but, what isn’t known is that up to half of the problems could have been prevented by a regular servicing. Save yourself the cost and inconvenience and book your car in for a service now. In winter, lots of garages offer discounted or even free ‘winter car checks’ so take advantage of some of these which may be local to you.

  1. Check your Cars Battery

It’s obvious that during winter you use your lights, heater and blower much more frequent. Suffering from almost double use, checking your battery should always be priority. If your car is having trouble when starting, get the battery checked out as soon as possible. Worst case scenario is that your car won’t start because of a flat battery. If this happens, try giving your car a jump start.

  1. Condition of Tyres

Your vehicles tyres are important for both braking and steering so keeping them in good condition is very important. Despite the legal minimum of a 1.6mm depth, we advise that you stick to a minimum of 3mm during winter. This just helps improve the grip of your car on ice and snow.

  1. Top up Engine Coolant

In the colder months, antifreeze will be extremely important for ensuing your engine doesn’t over-heat. Your engine coolant should be a 50/50 mix between antifreeze and water, this is because antifreeze becomes diluted over time.

  1. Give your Windscreen a check

Before winter, give your windscreen a thorough check for any cracks and chips. During winter, water can seep into these cracks, freeze and then cause expansion. Getting anything repaired before this can happen can save lots of money.

  1. Carry a Winter Breakdown Kit

In case of emergency, we advise carrying a breakdown kit in your car during winter. This kit should include some of these essentials if not all:

  • Torch
  • Blanket
  • Shovel
  • Hi-vis vest
  • Food and water
  • De-icer and scraper

Taking extra precaution when driving in bad weather is how you ensure your safety. We strongly advise that you always travel with a fully charged mobile just in case you find yourself in an accident or breakdown.

  1. Comprehensive Cover

Having comprehensive breakdown cover is vital at this time of year. The last thing you want is an accident and then being stranded in the cold. So, check with your policy and have the peace of mind knowing you are covered.

  1. Prepare!

If you know you need to be somewhere at a specific time, plan your journey ahead. Check for any road closures or delays and allow plenty of time for your journey. Being in a rush when the weather is bad increases your chances of being in a road car accident – so be prepared!

Customer Creations

Engine showing red silicone hoses

We love to see images from our customers which show our products insitu.

Instagram is a great source of inspiration to see what people can do with our individual components. Here at Viper we are always keeping an eye on our social media to see these great examples of engine upgrades. Just look at how great this engine bay look with Viper Performance silicone hoses.

Or this example of an induction setup for an Alfa Romeo. Our Silicone hoses are the perfect components for people like berlinasportivo to create such systems.

If you would like your creation featured on our social media and website then @viperperform in your Instagram posts or use the hashtag #viperhoses.

We look forward to seeing your creations.

instagram button

Difference between Stage 1,2 and 3 Tuning

car modsTuning companies often talk about stage 1,2 and 3 mods. But what are these mods and what do they mean?

These stages are often meaningless terms when applied to power gains as they can’t reliably be used to explain how much power a mod actually adds. Between stage 1,2 and 3 there is no consistent different between their classifications. However, there are some points which differentiate a ‘typical’ mod in each stage.

Stage 1 Modifications

A true stage 1 modification doesn’t require any other engine mod to get it to work, this means it can be added in isolation. Other mods can help to raise the power gains and realise the potential of the mod, they aren’t mandatory. These are at the bottom of the tuning scene in terms of the overall benefits you will receive. Stage 1 modifications are usually a straightforward DIY fit, they should also work on a standard engine that’s in good condition.

Some examples of Stage 1 mods include panel air filters, sports exhausts and fuel pressure regulators.

Stage 2 Modifications

Stage 2 mods tend to offer larger power gains than stage 1 but will require additional work on other parts if you want them to work reliably. Like stage 1, stage 2 mods are usually a DIY fit but will require more specialist knowledge and tools.

Some examples of stage 2 mods include aggressive remap that requires a stronger turbo, sports exhaust requiring new headers and internal mods requiring fuel to be uprated.

Stage 3 Modifications

Stage 3 modifications are known by most as a track day modification. Similarly, to stage 2, they will also require other mods to support them but they are usually less ideal for road use due to there aggressiveness. A stage 3 modified car will need to be regularly overhauled and serviced.

Some examples of stage 3 mods include aggressive cam profiles, heavy competition clutch and ultralight flywheels.

Find your performance parts here

Why is putting a F1 Engine in a Road Car so Difficult?

f1 to roadFormula 1 cars and road cars share the same components and operating features but that’s as far as similarities go. Formula 1 engines are very difficult to start. Due to the complexity they can’t cold-start, this means warm oil needs to be plumbed through the engine for a couple hours prior to firing it up. As you are aware of, starting a car doesn’t require this preparation, you can just get going right away.

Formula 1 engines also have a high-revving nature. This isn’t as much of a problem in ultra-light F1 cars, but with the additional weight of a street car, it would cause many issues for the engine. This is the reason for why Mercedes – AMG engineers reduced the engines redline to 11,00 rpm for the One hypercar – still a stratospheric number.

Next, the cost. Formula 1 car engineering demands a lot of money to develop. This means a legal street F1 hypercar would have a very high price tag. For this high price, people would expect a hypercar that will last – this is not a strong feature of F1 cars. One engine usually lasting 2 races means they need rebuilding and replacing quite often. For buyers, this constant need for work is a major put off.

2 Grades of exhaust wraps available

If your car needs reduced engine under bonnet temperatures and the hot exhaust gas dispersion time needs to be improved then exhaust wraps are a great solution. They are ideal for reducing engine temperatures and improving exhaust gas temperatures.

We have 2 grades available:

black heat wrap 1 – Fiber Glass exhaust wraps

Exhaust wraps produced with Fiber Glass are suitable for manifold applications up to 550°C. Simply wrap around your manifold to reduce engine temperatures, and improve exhaust gas temperatures. 1″ rolls are best suited for applying on tight radius manifolds 2″ rolls are easier to apply and neater for longer straight sections. Available in Natural or Black colours.

Find out more here.

Please Note: Cable Ties are not included but can be purchased here

2 – Titanium

titanium heat wrap

This is superb quality exhaust wrap for very hot manifolds up to 700°C.
If other materials have failed try this. Wrap around your manifold to reduce engine temperatures, and improve exhaust gas temperatures. This particular exhaust wrap will give high heat protection to any exhaust application. Available in a bronze colour only.

Find out more here


Please Note: Cable Ties are not included but can be purchased here